Visiting Two Sacred Spaces in France

Vezelay Abbey

Sacred spaces. These are places that just feel different. Places that demand time for reflection. Places that allow your soul to breathe.

Sacred spaces can be found all over the world, but some of the most moving that I’ve visited have been in France.

You may be surprised to learn that some of these spaces were founded by people who knew the gospel well and wanted to see it spread throughout their region. And while their methods may not be what we appreciate today, we must admit that these champions of the faith created incredible places of worship.

Two of these are Vezelay Abbey and Fontenay Abbey. Both monasteries, but very different in feel.

Vezelay Abbey

Vezelay Abbey is the starting point of the Vezelay Way, a part of the well-known Camino de Santiago pilgrimage trail. The cathedral is set high on a hill and can be spotted for miles, probably an encouragement to early pilgrims trying to reach the site. The only way to get to the actual Abbey is to climb a steep, cobblestone street, but today, a few shops along the way make the trek interesting.

Groups of pilgrims still visit Vezelay, but whether or not you’re making a spiritual pilgrimage, a visit to Vezelay is definitely worth your time.

Park at the bottom of the hill, right when you enter the village (you’ll have to pay to park)—there is very little to no public parking at the top of the hill near the Abbey (although there are a few disabled parking spots at the top). Several lunch spots are located near the parking lot, so grab a bite to eat before you make the climb. (You’ll need the sustenance—ha!) There is one lovely restaurant at the top, near the Abbey courtyard, called La Terrasse, but other than that, there’s not many restaurants on the way up.

Once you reach the Abbey courtyard, you’ll notice the entryway, flanked by huge (and I mean HUGE!) red doors. Now look up. Notice the sculpture above the doorway. It is also huge, with a figure of Christ taking front and center, his arms wide open as if to say, “Welcome, weary pilgrim.”

Vezelay Abbey was built between 1120 and 1150, and it's a place that sets my imagination on fire. The sacrifice that the people must have made to build a structure of such grandeur in such a remote place must have been incredible. From below, Vezelay Abbey can be seen for miles.

After taking some time to walk through the church itself (several important sculptures, wooden crosses from WWII, and—probably the most famous—the relics of Mary Magdelene, are all on display here), be sure to walk around to the back of the church. A large grassy area leads to a stone wall that curves around the entire back part of the cathedral. From there, you can take in some of the most breathtaking views in Burgundy.

As I stood there, looking over fields and vineyards—as far as the eye could see—I felt a part of the history of that sacred place. Because, I know that, even if not many worship today, a thread of faith continues.

Fontenay Abbey

Fontenay Abbey

Even older than Vezelay, and about an hour’s drive away, is Fontentay Abbey. This beautiful, peaceful property was originally founded as a monastery by Bernard of Clairvaux in 1118. Sadly, the monks left the abbey during the French revolution, after which the buildings were used for industrial purposes.

Today, Fontenay Abbey is privately owned (the owners actually live in two of the buildings!). Thankfully, the owners are taking good care of it because Fontenay is known as the most well preserved Cistercian Abbey in the world. Guided tours are available, or you can walk through on your own.

The first time I visited Fontenay Abbey, I fell in love with it. It is such a beautiful, peaceful place. While walking through the sparse chapel (quite a contrast to Vezelay’s ornate cathedral), I try to imagine what life was like for the monks who lived there during the Medieval period. I imagined that each had his specific role that allowed to monastery to run smoothly. I pictured the group coming together for vespers several times a day. I envisioned quite meal times with hearty food from the gardens.

Fontenay Abbey is a place that demands contemplation, so be sure to take a few minutes to sit on a bench and simply take in the quiet atmosphere.

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This is what we discover on a Walkabout tour. We look for sacred spaces where God is still at work, where threads of faith remain, where our hearts can be at rest. If you’re interested in taking a Walkabout tour, get in touch here.

"The grass withers, the flower fades, but the word of our God will stand forever." Is. 40:8